Kyrgyzstan is comprised of seven provinces (or oblasts as they are called here). Chui and Issyk-Kul Oblast are seen as the Northern Russified Oblasts. Talas and Naryn are seen as the Northern Kyrgyz Oblasts. Dzala-Bad, Osh, and Baitken are the Uzbek influenced Southern Oblasts. In the coldest oblast, Naryn, the temperatures can shoot down to – 30 while in the hottest oblasts Osh, the temperature can break 110.
In Chui and Issyk-Kul the majority of people speak Russian as their primary language and then Kyrgyz. In Chui and Issyk-Kul the majority of economic activities take place. Issyk-Kul (the oblast with the lake conveniently called Issyk-Kul) owns the tourist industry in the country. Chui Oblast is where Bishkek is located; it has the most universities, a small financial center, and even a Hyatt. These oblasts are comprised of Kyrgyz, Russian, Ukranian, Dungan, Uzbek, Korean, and German people.
As said before Talas and Naryn are the most Kyrgyz provinces. They are also the coldest and the most economically impoverished. According to my ‘Kyrgyzstan Culture Smart Card’ between 80-90% of people are living below $2 a day in Naryn. These oblasts (especially Naryn) are almost exclusively comprised of Kyrgyz people. Most people here speak Kyrgyz as their primary and only language. Those that want to go onto higher education study Russian but the majority of people here speak only Kyrgyz. This is also the heart of Kyrgyz culture. This is where you will find the best Beshbarmack, Eagle Hunting, Yurt Culture, and Manas Tellers. This is also where those soaring mountains that I would have associated with Kyrgyzstan before coming here lie.
The third group of oblasts, Osh, Batken, and Dzala-Bad are said by current volunteers to be the most Uzbek/Fergana. Populations of Uzbeks in these oblasts can rise above 50% and in many of the communities Uzbek is the predominant language. This province is known for its rich cuisine and warm climates. Kyrgyz food is basically comprised of meat, meat, and meat. If I am sent to Naryn and Talas my diet will consist of meat and potatoes for the next two years. In the Southern provinces the diet is much more balanced. There are a lot of fruits and vegetables found in the food here – due to the warm climates and relative proximity to Middle Eastern countries potato is also not the only or even main staple here. Volunteers are not stationed in Batken or Dzala-Bad currently, so if I am sent to the South I would be in Osh Oblast where temperatures regularly rise above 100 in the summer. These provinces have more wealth in them than Talas and Naryn but are not as wealthy as Chui or Issyk-Kul.
For the past month (and until early June) we have all been living with host-families in the Russified Chui Oblast about 20 KM as we build up our language, teaching, and cultural skills. This oblast has been great so far, I have a wonderful family with four kids. I am subjected here to breakfasts of fresh bread and jam, three-course lunches that will start with beet, cabbage, and carrot salads –move into a main dish which ( plov, samsa, or lagman) and then onto chai and cookies. In the evening I will play Frisbee or Chess with my younger siblings, go ‘guesting’ at the other volunteer’s houses, study language, or run around the lake (where I fell and slipped in a huge pile of horse poop yesterday).
On May 26th we will hear where we will be sent for the next two years. I am anticipating this event and of course am nervous because as you can see even though this is a tiny country about the size of Nebraska the oblasts have dramatic climatic, linguistic, and cultural differences. It is an unbelievably diverse, multinational country. However from the tiny village where I have been living I have no more than the tiniest piece of the puzzle at my disposal. Even though my piece is tiny though, it contains a lot more knowledge than I had about this country a month ago…
Until the next time I find internet, love from the Kyrgyz Republic
Andrew
